June 2021 we left Kalgoorlie and made our way to Norseman. This is the 7th time we have driven across and the 4th time West to East. After a couple of overnight stops at free camps, we stopped at Eucla,13km from the WA/SA border. We have travelled 708km across the Eyre Highway (Nullarbor) from Norseman. There is another 489km until we reach Ceduna, considered to be the end of “crossing the Nullarbor.” We are taking our time and only doing a few hundred km each day. In comparison to previous times, there is actually minimal traffic on the roads, with more heading West than East. The roadhouses and free camps have had plenty of sites available, with lots of space to spread out. We are spending a few days at Eucla to soak up the views and the sunny weather. Then we will cross into SA and onto the Nullarbor Roadhouse where we will base ourselves for 4 days to watch the whales at The Head of Bight. 🙋♂️🙋♀️🐳🐳
In the early 1900s Eucla was the country’s busiest telegraph station outside Australia’s capital cities. The old Telegraph Station at Eucla is one of the iconic and lonely images of the Nullarbor. It is now nothing more than a few old stone walls slowly disappearing under huge white sand dunes on the edge of the Great Australian Bight.
Our crossing into South Australia was a bit of an anticlimax. We had received our Covid permits to enter SA and had printed them out, all ready to show them to the border officers……..but nobody to be seen anywhere at all. So we just carried on towards the Nullarbor Roadhouse 184 kilometres away and where we would be staying four nights. (Update – a few days later it would have been a very different story. A Covid outbreak had Police manning the border checkpoints and they weren’t allowing a lot of people to cross.) We had a fantastic four days at the Head of Bight Whale Watching Centre which is only a short drive from the roadhouse. It is one of the most significant places for a unique opportunity to view the large numbers of Southern Right whales to congregate “en masse” and give birth in a semi-protected environment. There are a number of viewing platforms which also show off the spectacular backdrop of the Bunda Cliffs. Below are just a few pics of these majestic Southern Right Whales, some with calves. Lots of cruising, blowing, tail slapping and the odd breaching. Can’t wait to go again! 🐳🐳